Larnaca, Cyprus

Travel across Cyprus with Kyiv's first travel blogger

Three hundred years ago, he crossed this island on foot. He left behind sketches, journals, and hundreds of pages of vivid observations. Meet Vasyl Hryhorovych-Barsky - a traveller, scholar, and chronicler whose route across Cyprus can still be followed today.

Бронзовий бюст із зображенням чоловіка з бородою і довгим волоссям у піджаку.Статуя чоловіка з бородою у старовинному вбранні з написом «ШУКАЙ!» збоку.
Мандрівник · Вчений · Хроніст

Знайомтесь,Василь Григорович-Барський

The 18th century. A young man from Kyiv sets out on a journey without GPS, without a smartphone, and with almost no money - armed only with a curious mind and a pen. Over the next 24 years, he will travel across three continents and become one of the most remarkable chroniclers of his time.

His name was Vasyl Hryhorovych-Barsky. Born in Kyiv, he studied at the Kyiv-Mohyla Academy, one of the leading centres of learning in Europe at the time. It was there that he acquired his knowledge of Latin, his passion for learning, and the inner compass that would guide him for decades.

«He visited Cyprus five times - more than any other country.»

Here, he taught Latin to Greek students, sketched monasteries, described bustling markets, marvelled at snakes, and praised the local wine. His notes are more than simple pilgrimage records. It is a living portrait of an island that no longer exists in its original form, yet remains visible through Hryhorovych-Barsky's eyes.

Today, we invite you to follow in his footsteps.

Explore the route
МАРШРУТ КІПРОМ

His route.Your journey.

Barshky visited Cyprus five times. His final journey lasted almost two years - he crossed the island on foot, from monastery to monastery, from village to village. We have gathered the key points of his route. Tap a place on the map to discover what he saw, thought, and wrote there.

July 1727

Stavrovouni

One of the oldest monasteries in Cyprus — Legend says it was founded by Empress Helena herself in 327 AD, when she was returning from Jerusalem. Its main relic is a silver cross containing a fragment of the Life-Giving Cross of the Lord.

"The place here is very beautiful and picturesque, secluded and cool, because up here at this height there is always wind, although there is none down below."

1735

Akamas Peninsula

The wildest corner of Cyprus — a protected peninsula in the northwest with untouched nature, turquoise lagoons, and beaches where sea turtles nest. In Barsky's time, it was dense, impassable wilderness. Today, it is one of the most sought-after destinations for those escaping tourist routes.

"from the northern side of the island stretches a long strip of land, about two days' journey in length, uninhabited and covered with forest trees... I did not go further, for the places here are impassable — nothing but rough paths and wilderness."

April–May 1727

Kykkos Monastery

The most famous and richest monastery in Cyprus, located in the Troodos Mountains. Its main relic is an icon of the Virgin Mary, believed to be the first portrait of the Mother of God painted during her lifetime by the Apostle Luke. The icon was brought from Constantinople in 980.

"This monastery does not suffer greatly under the Ottomans and does not pay heavy tribute; there are crosses on the church, which is rare in Turkish lands... and nowhere else on the island of Cyprus is there better water, for it is as pure as crystal and as cold as ice, enough to make your teeth ache."

1727

Larnaca and Alikes

One of the 20 oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. In Barsky's time, Larnaca and Alikes were separate districts: Alikes was the port area with the Church of Saint Lazarus, while Larnaca referred to the settlement itself. What we now know as a single city had not yet fully merged.

"Larnaca is neither a city nor a village, but a settlement near the seashore, where French and English consuls live, handling the affairs of their people arriving by ship and administering justice over them."

1734–1736

Lefkara

A mountain village in southern Cyprus where time seems to have stood still. Two crafts have been passed down here from generation to generation: filigree silverwork through the male line, and Lefkara lace (lefkaritika) through the female line. Both traditions are still alive today and each with its own legends. The main relic of the Church of the Holy Cross is a fragment of the Life-Giving Wood, according to tradition gifted by Empress Helena.

"In it is preserved an invaluable treasure — a great part of the Life-Giving Wood... the wood is very ancient and wonderfully fragrant. It bears two holes, left by the nails that were driven in when Christ was crucified."

1727–1734

Lefkosia (Nicosia)

The capital of Cyprus and the only divided capital in Europe. In Barsky's time, it was under Ottoman rule — something he experienced firsthand. Today, the city remains divided by the UN "Green Line," but since 2008 there has been a crossing point on Ledra Street between the two parts. What he once described as a city under foreign rule still bears that legacy in its architecture and streets. Here, our traveller taught Latin at the archbishop's court.

"Lefkosia is the chief and largest city in Cyprus... It was once a magnificent city: at that time it was ruled by the Venetians, and their distinct Venetian architecture can still be recognized in the city walls and the foundations of old houses, of which only a few remain."

April – December 1735

Monastery of Saint John Lampadistis (Kalopanagiotis)

A monastery set in a narrow mountain valley above a river, surrounded by the forests of the Troodos range. Barsky stayed here for three days — and did not regret it. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for its remarkable Byzantine frescoes. It is also where he left one of his five known autographs in Cyprus.

"I stayed here for three days, because the monks are hospitable and the place is beautiful; I, without any laziness, made an accurate drawing of this monastery... It stands in a beautiful and narrow valley above a small river, enclosed on all sides by high mountains, where there are many different forest trees, springs, and lovely villages that delight the eye."

April – December 1735

Monastery of Saint Neophytos (Paphos)

A cave monastery in the quiet hills near Paphos. Saint Neophytos carved his own cell into the rock in the 12th century and lived here as a hermit until the end of his life. Barsky called this monastery the second most beautiful on the entire island of Cyprus. The place has changed very little over time — and this sense of permanence is its greatest value.

"What shall I say about the main church of the Most Holy Mother of God? It is bright, with many windows and a beautiful dome above, built of pure and finely cut stone... the floor is beautifully paved with marble slabs. In a word, this church is better than all those described before."

During his major walking journey, 1734–1736

Panagia Skouriotissa

A small Orthodox monastery near the village of the same name in the Nicosia district. The name comes from the Greek "σκουριά" — meaning rust: nearby lies one of the oldest copper ore deposits in Cyprus. Oxidised copper has coloured the mountains a rusty red, making them truly look "rusted." Today, an artificial turquoise lake sits nearby — a striking contrast with the red mountains.

"the place here is beautiful and quiet, by a river which, though shallow, flows swiftly and with great noise... the bishop had shut himself inside the monastery, fearing the plague, and would admit no one; he did not allow me to enter either, but only had bread and other food brought out to me."

12 November 1734

Saint Minas Monastery

A small, peaceful monastery in the Larnaca district. Barsky arrived here on the feast day of Saint Minas — directly from his teaching work in Nicosia. It was his first "weekend trip" in Cyprus. In his time, it was a male monastery built under the Franks as a Catholic foundation. Today it is a convent and one of the most atmospheric places on the island.

"On 12 November, the feast of the holy martyr Minas, I went on a pilgrimage to a local monastery dedicated to him, where every year a great celebration takes place and many people gather from nearby villages... and many here receive healing from their illnesses through the miraculous icon of the saint."

Григорович-Барський

10 surprising facts about the traveller

You've probably heard of great explorers - Marco Polo, Magellan, Cook. Now meet a man who achieved no less than they did, except that he was simply born in Kyiv and wrote in Ukrainian.

Григорович-Барський

A bronze story under the open sky

The "Shukai!" project and the first sculpture to ever go beyond Ukraine's borders

Білий текст «ШУКАЙ!» з довгою тінню на червоному фоні з маленькою лупою біля знаку оклику.

"Shukai!" is a Kyiv-based public art project that turns a walk through the city into a journey through time.

Small bronze sculptures are installed in landmark locations across Kyiv, each telling the story of real people and events that shaped the city. A jeweller Marshak, the first contracts on Podil, "Shchedryk" that travelled the world, people who became anchors in times of war — each sculpture is a living story that can be found, touched, and carried away in memory.

Today, Kyiv already has more than 50 such sculptures, and the number continues to grow every year.

And now — for the first time — "Shukai!" goes beyond Ukraine's borders

Сіра скульптура чоловіка з бородою, що сидить і пише у книзі на тлі червоного пелюстка.

Бронзова фігура мандрівника.
Obiimy Cyprus, Ларнака.

The first international sculpture of the "Shukai!" project is dedicated to a man who connected Kyiv and Cyprus 300 years ago. And it is installed right here - on the island he returned to most often.

The sculptor has captured in bronze not a pose, but a state: a moment between observation and recording, between what is and what will remain.

WHERE IT IS LOCATED

The sculpture is located at the entrance of the Obiimy Cyprus cultural centre in Larnaca and is open to everyone — free of charge, 24/7. Come, take a look, take a photo.

Графіка мандрівника

Світ у лініях та деталях

Василь Григорович-Барський був не лише хронікером, а й талановитим графіком. Кожен його опис супроводжувався детальним малюнком, що дозволяє нам сьогодні бачити архітектуру Кіпру XVIII століття.уальні й сьогодні.

ЦІКАВЕ ПРО КІПР ВІД БАРСЬКОГО

Barsky observed.And many of his observations still ring true today.

As he was leaving Cyprus in 1736, Barsky wrote a concluding passage - almost as if he knew he would never return. Here are some of his observations that remain surprisingly relevant today.

About Commandaria

"They produce a sweet and fragrant wine called Commandaria; it is eagerly purchased and taken to Venice and other Western countries."

Vasyl Hryhorovych-Barsky, 1736

Commandaria is one of the oldest wines in the world. Barsky wrote about it in the eighteenth century, yet it has been produced in Cyprus for more than 5,000 years.

About snakes

"There is here a viper, venomous and deadly, called 'hupsi', which means 'deaf'; they say it is found nowhere else, only in Cyprus."

Vasyl Hryhorovych-Barsky, 1736

The "hupsi" is the Cypriot blunt-nosed viper, a species found only on Cyprus. Barsky was among the first to document it for a wider audience.

About a 'visa' for leaving the island

"My companion had to obtain a Turkish document there — a muhurtagata, that is, a letter of departure, without which neither a local resident nor a foreigner could leave Cyprus."

Vasyl Hryhorovych-Barsky, 1736

The earliest documented Cypriot visa system — seen through the eyes of an eighteenth-century traveller.

About people

"Nearly everyone here is born with a quick mind and a fine voice; the women wear beautiful and inexpensive clothing."

Vasyl Hryhorovych-Barsky, 1736

A compliment to the people of Cyprus from a traveller from Kyiv — still relevant 300 years later.

Project partners & team

A cultural space in Larnaca where Ukrainian and Cypriot communities meet. The home of the "Traveller from Kyiv" sculpture and a place where dialogue between two cultures continues.

A family philanthropic initiative supporting cultural and humanitarian projects at the intersection of Ukraine and the wider world.

A Kyiv-based public art project — bronze mini-sculptures that bring the city's history to life. "The Traveller from Kyiv" is the first sculpture of the project installed outside Ukraine.

A family philanthropic initiative supporting cultural and humanitarian projects at the intersection of Ukraine and the wider world.

ACADEMIC LEAD

Olha Filimonova — MA in Cultural Studies, tour guide, and civic activist based in Cyprus. She provides the academic foundation of the project, including research on Barskyi's route and verification of historical data.